![]() However, when I dialed the timing light back to 8° so that the 0° marks would line up, I could see that I was indeed OFF with my previous measurement. I should go in and paint the 0° mark white. Now let me mention that what I'm looking at is timing tape that is somewhat reflective, and the timing marks on the block are blue. When I first checked it with the timing light set at 0.0° offset, sure enough it looked about like 8° again. Well I bought the digital timing light that can dial back the timing by 0.1° increments. my target was to set total timing at 35°. I went in and double checked the Scamp's timing (with LA360) because I thought I had the initial timing set at 8°. But there's a lot of stuff I should have done years ago, I suppose you guys know the feeling. ![]() So I finally broke down and bought my own timing gun, should have done it a couple years ago. I know I have had engines that has gone as high as 44 total "all in"before it would slow down but these are in low compression bad quench engines that need timing.Dredging this thread back up because it is a good one and right in line with my topic. Use the race track and watch mph to see if it wants more total or less. easy enough right? then the vacuum can should be limited to 10 degrees hook to full port vacuum so the engine will idle with 26 degrees and cruising down the road above 3k rpms the most the engine will see is 45 degrees, then when you punch it, the 10 degrees of timing will fall off and go straight to your 36 degree total.Ī curve like this gives you some room to advance the total if you ever make it to the track or do some dyno tuning or maybe some timed runs off in the middle of nowhere if the engine say likes 40 total say at the track where your mph trap speed was the best then you should still be able to crank the engine over still pretty easy with 20 intital. So to break this down, no vacuum advance hooked up- it should idle with say 16 initial and should see 36 total all in before 3k. Total "all in" around the 2500 to 3k mark. adjust the mechanical so it stops around the 36 Set initial around 16-20 degrees where's it's still easy to start, limit vacuum advance 10 degrees so it idles with 26-30 degrees. Just all around bad advise, no thought at all, setting up dizzy is hard for folks that give this kind of advice, so they do mindless things, imagine meeting a cam grinder with this thought or engine builder, never mind specs just put the parts in the engine, it knows which parts will fit, it knows what it wants.sad Then after you get it running the best it ever can, THEN AND ONLY THEN pull out your "light" and look at your "mark" and write down what they say, so you can put it back whenever somebody less intelligent than you, later on, decides THEY know more about what YOUR ENGINE wants than YOUR ENGINE does, and screws it up. And the more nearly "ideal" that is, according to ITS OWN needs, THE BETTER it runs. I can assure you, THE ENGINE does not whup out a "light" and look at a "mark" and compare it to a "tab" and look up some "spec" in some "book" when you start it up, and make up its mind how it's gonna run today all it cares, is WHEN THE SPARK HAPPENS. It speaks in a pretty easy-to-understand language ET, mph, throttle response, running temp, gas mileage, dyno numbers. Believe me, it knows FAR more than you EVER will, about what its "ideal" timing is just let it spell it out for you. ![]() Put down the light and open your mind and LISTEN TO WHAT YOUR ENGINE IS TELLING YOU. Don't be one of them.Ībout 99.9999% of all motors that people post on the Internet about what they "set" the timing to, NEED MORE ADVANCE. So easy, yet so often people outsmart themselves over it. Then, no matter what your "light" and "mark" tell you about some "number", IT'S THE RIGHT ONE. EFFFFF a whole bunch of "light" and "mark" and "degree" and "number" just MAKE THE DAMN THIGN RUN AS GOOD AS IT CAN. Always amazes me that people overlook such a simple fact.Īllow me to paraphrase one of The Great Ones in a completely unrelated field but what he said is such a total no-brainer, its application to car tuning is undeniable. The engine will tell you what it likes, what's good for it, by running better. Sound slike you should pay ALOT less attention to "numbers" you see on "lights" and "marks", (like, NONE) and instead, ALOT more on WHAT THE ENGINE WANTS. What the engine gets under cruise conditions ("total" PLUS vac adv) is usually well above 50° BTDC. "Total" timing = static + "centrifugal" (RPM based) w vac adv disconnected. In fact if I were working on one and it DIDN'T do that, I'd immediately drop everything and find out why, and get it to where it DOES do that. Click to expand.Sounds COMPLETELY ABSOLUTELY PERFECTLY normal.
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